Solved: Microwave Tripping Power–Simple Fix Worked

Is your microwave constantly tripping the circuit breaker, leaving you without a quick meal? This frustrating issue often ties back to overloads from the magnetron or a faulty capacitor, not always a full-blown fuse failure. Our 10-step guide walks you through safe checks-from outlet tests to breaker resets-so you can pinpoint and fix it simply at home. Regain reliable power without the hassle of pro repairs.

Key Takeaways:

  • Start troubleshooting by unplugging the microwave, inspecting the outlet, and testing it with another appliance to rule out simple power issues.
  • Check the circuit breaker and reset it properly; also examine the microwave’s power cord for damage causing overloads.
  • If basic fixes fail, test on a different circuit or consult a professional to address faulty components or wiring problems safely.
  • 1. Unplug the Microwave Safely

    Before touching any electrical components, always start by cutting off the power source to prevent shocks.

    Once power is off, follow these safety steps for unplugging, per OSHA guidelines (29 CFR 1910.303) to avoid hazards like arcing or fires.

    1. Inspect for damage: Examine the cord and plug for frayed wires, cracks, or bent prongs. If damaged, replace immediately-frayed cords cause 30% of electrical fires per NFPA data.
    2. Use insulated tools if needed: For tight plugs, employ dielectric pliers (e.g., Klein Tools insulated model, rated 1000V) to gently loosen without risk.
    3. Grasp the plug firmly: Hold the plug body directly and pull straight out from the outlet, avoiding any cord yanking which can loosen internal connections.
    4. Verify disconnection Pull gently on the plug until it comes out completely, then coil it loosely when you store it to avoid damage later.

    This process takes under a minute but significantly reduces injury risks.

    2. Inspect the Power Outlet

    Have you noticed burn marks or loose fittings around your kitchen outlet that could signal deeper issues?

    These signs often indicate electrical overloads or faulty wiring, potentially leading to fires. Common indicators include discoloration (yellowing or browning from heat), unusual warmth when the outlet isn’t in use, or a buzzing sound suggesting arcing.

    Start with a visual inspection: unplug all devices, check for cracks in the outlet cover, and gently tug plugs to detect looseness.

    Use a non-contact voltage tester, like the Klein Tools NCVT-1 ($25), to verify no live current with items unplugged.

    According to NFPA data, faulty wiring causes over 50,000 home fires yearly.

    If you spot these issues, call certified electricians like Mister Sparky immediately for professional diagnosis and repairs to avoid hazards.

    3. Test the Outlet with Another Appliance

    Grab a simple lamp or toaster and plug it into the same spot where your microwave failed.

    This low-draw appliance test quickly verifies if the outlet delivers power without needing tools-ideal for basic continuity checks, as a working lamp confirms the circuit is live. It won’t detect subtle voltage drops (e.g., below 110V) that could explain microwave issues, per NEC standards (Article 210).

    To get an exact reading,

    1. set a multimeter to AC voltage mode:
    2. insert probes into the outlet slots and
    3. read 110-120V for safety.

    Unlike the appliance method, this identifies imbalances, but beware GFCI outlets-test the button first, as they trip on ground faults (UL 943 certification), potentially mimicking a dead circuit.

    • Multimeter pros include accuracy;
    • cons are requiring equipment ($10-20 basic models).

    4. Check the Microwave’s Power Cord

    A single kink in the cord, caused by years of moving the unit around the counter.

    That kink can lead to internal wire damage, risking shocks or fires. To avoid common mistakes when inspecting cords, follow these expert guidelines from repair specialists like Jayeff on YouTube, who emphasizes proactive checks based on UL safety standards.

    Common pitfalls to dodge:

    • Overlooking frayed insulation: Scan for exposed wires monthly; if found, replace immediately per OSHA guidelines to prevent electrocution.
    • Ignoring overload signs: Don’t plug high-wattage appliances into the same outlet-use a surge protector rated for 15 amps.
    • Pinching cords under cabinets: Route them freely to avoid abrasion; inspect for cuts after rearrangements.

    For prevention, perform visual scans weekly, uncoil fully before use, and replace cords showing wear after 5-7 years, as recommended by the Consumer Product Safety Commission.

    5. Examine the Circuit Breaker

    Circuit breakers in older homes often handle only 15 amps, which a microwave’s startup surge can overwhelm.

    1. To assess your setup, start by locating the electrical panel, typically in the basement or garage.
    2. Open it and identify the kitchen circuit-look for labels or test by flipping outlets with a non-essential appliance.
    3. Note if it’s a standard breaker or GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter), common in kitchens for safety per NEC 210.8 standards; GFCIs trip faster at 5 amps.
    4. For accurate measurement, use a digital multimeter like the Klein Tools MM400 ($30).
    5. Set to AC amps, clamp around the wire (never the neutral), and run your microwave-monitor for peaks above 12 amps, indicating overload risk.
    6. If surges hit 20 amps, upgrade to a 20-amp breaker after consulting an electrician.

    6. Reset the Circuit Breaker Properly

    After flipping the tripped breaker to off, wait 30 seconds before switching it back on to allow cooldown.

    This simple reset resolved intermittent tripping for Christine Riedel, a homeowner whose microwave shared a circuit with kitchen appliances, causing overloads during peak use like evening cooking. Once reset, she tested by running the microwave for 5 minutes while unplugging the toaster and blender-preventing recurrence initially.

    If tripping persists after this, outcomes point to deeper issues: immediate overload from high-draw devices or internal microwave faults like a faulty magnetron, which can draw excessive current (up to 15 amps).

    Next, use a circuit tester (e.g., Klein Tools RT210) to verify load; if over 80% capacity, redistribute outlets or consult an electrician per NEC guidelines to avoid fire risks.

    7. Clean the Microwave’s Interior

    Food splatters inside can block the cooling fan, leading to overheating and breaker trips during operation.

    Buildup, such as grease and crumbs, insulates the fan blades, reducing airflow by up to 50% according to a 2022 study by the Appliance Standards Awareness Project (ASAP), as detailed in U.S. Department of Energy advisory resources, forcing motors to overwork and risk burnout. Proper ventilation dissipates heat, maintaining temperatures below 140 degreesF to prevent thermal shutdowns.

    To clean safely, follow these steps:

    1. Unplug the unit.
    2. Use a dry microfiber cloth to gently wipe fan blades, avoiding water to prevent electrical shorts.
    3. Vacuum loose debris with a soft brush attachment.
    4. Reassemble and test.

    UL 858 standards warn that residue can cause short circuits, potentially leading to fires-always consult your model’s manual for specifics.

    8. Verify the Door Switch Mechanism

    The door switch in models like GE JVM3160RF4SS ensures no power flows unless fully closed.

    To verify its function at home, perform these quick win tests.

    1. First, inspect visually for even alignment-no gaps exceeding 1/16 inch around the door frame, as per GE service guidelines.
    2. Next, shut the door tight and listen for a clear click that shows the switch is fully engaged. A faint sound or no sound at all usually means poor alignment.
    3. To test continuity, use a digital multimeter like the Klein Tools MM400, which costs under $30. Set it to ohms. Touch the probes to the switch terminals with the door open (infinite resistance) and closed (near zero).

    Catching issues early prevents partial power draws that mimic circuit overloads, reducing arcing risks and avoiding unnecessary $150-300 repairs, according to Consumer Reports microwave troubleshooting data.

    9. Test the Microwave on a Different Circuit

    Moving your microwave to a garage outlet revealed the kitchen circuit’s overload in one user’s fix.

    This simple relocation highlights a common myth: that kitchen outlets are equal, when many share circuits with high-draw appliances like stoves or refrigerators, per the National Electrical Code (NEC 210.52).

    To diagnose, use a plug-in circuit tester (e.g., Klein Tools RT210, $20) to map your breakers-test by turning off appliances and plugging in the microwave.

    For a permanent fix, install a dedicated 20-amp circuit for the microwave, reducing GFCI trips by up to 80%, as shown in GregMac’s YouTube tests.

    Consult a licensed electrician to avoid fire risks; costs average $150-300.

    10. Consult a Professional if Needed

    When DIY steps fail, pros like those at Mister Sparky in Denver can diagnose high-voltage internals safely.

    Escalate when basic multimeter tests show erratic readings or you detect burning smells, indicating potential capacitor failure or wiring issues-don’t risk shocks.

    For capacitor-specific diagnostics, contact Magnify Electric in Aurora (303-555-0123), offering specialized testing for $150-250.

    Expert Donna Ryan at Ryan Electrical Services (720-555-0987) recommends full system scans using tools like Fluke insulation testers before replacement.

    If internals exceed 480V, opt for professional rewiring to comply with NEC standards; replacements typically cost $500-1,200, preventing costly fires per NFPA data.

    Why Does a Microwave Trip Power in the First Place?

    Microwaves draw up to 1500 watts at startup, easily overwhelming undersized home circuits.

    1. This high initial surge often trips breakers, mimicking other faults, so diagnosis starts with verifying circuit capacity-aim for at least 15 amps (1800 watts) per National Electrical Code (NEC) guidelines.
    2. Next, inspect wiring for frayed insulation or loose connections using a multimeter to test voltage drop under load; common in older homes as noted in Jayeff’s iFixit threads on appliance surges.
    3. If clear, check internal components like the magnetron or capacitor for faults with a continuity tester-replacements cost $50-150.
    4. Rule out faulty outlets by plugging into a heavy-duty extension rated 2000W, ensuring safe, sequential troubleshooting to avoid shocks.

    What Role Does Overloading Play?

    Running the microwave alongside a toaster on the same 15-amp line spikes demand beyond safe limits.

    Microwaves typically draw 10-12 amps in short surges to heat food quickly, while toasters pull 8-10 amps steadily during cycles, easily overwhelming a 15-amp circuit rated for 80% load (12 amps continuous). Steady loads, like refrigerator compressors at 5-7 amps, allow safer sharing, but surges from appliances cause rapid overheating and trips.

    Kitchens typically have their own 20-amp circuits, as required by NEC rules. These circuits supply steady power, which stops outages while you cook and helps appliances last longer.

    Shared circuits risk frequent breaker trips, disrupting workflows and posing fire hazards from arcing.

    Consult an electrician to assess your panel; tools like a Kill-A-Watt meter help measure actual draws for upgrades.

    How Do Faulty Components Contribute?

    A failing magnetron in GE models can pull erratic power, mimicking an overload to the breaker.

    To figure this out, use an organized method that considers how serious the symptoms are and what the tests show.

    1. Start by checking for symptoms like uneven heating, buzzing or humming noises, or the microwave running without generating heat-common in models like the GE JVM6175.
    2. Next, unplug the unit and use a multimeter to test the magnetron’s filament continuity; set to ohms and probe the terminals, expecting 0.5-1.0 ohms (per GE service manual guidelines).
    3. If readings exceed 2 ohms or show open circuit, the component has failed.
    4. Escalate to replacement using OEM parts (e.g., WB27X10930, ~$150) as outlined in iFixit or RepairClinic guides, avoiding DIY if under warranty to comply with UL safety standards.

    Can Wiring Issues in the Home Cause This?

    Why does a power surge from nearby construction keep tripping your circuit breaker over and over?

    In Singapore, a homeowner in an HDB estate had this problem during nearby road construction, which caused repeated power outages and damage to appliances.

    The culprit? Hidden wiring faults exacerbated by surges, as noted in a 2022 SP Services report on urban electrical vulnerabilities.

    An electrician from licensed firm like Engie was called; they conducted a thorough inspection using thermal imaging cameras to detect hotspots in concealed conduits, a method recommended by the BCA guidelines.

    The fix involved rewiring affected circuits, costing S$800-1,200.

    To prevent damage, install whole-home surge protectors, such as the Belkin 12-outlet model (S$50). It limits voltages above 330V and protects against problems caused by construction or storms.

    What Safety Precautions Should You Take During Fixes?

    One wrong touch on live wires can deliver a lethal shock from the microwave’s high-voltage setup.

    To avoid disaster, follow these essential precautions, categorized by stage, according to OSHA’s guidelines on controlling electrical hazards.

    Preparation Stage:

    • Always unplug the microwave from the power outlet first to cut power to the circuit.
    • Discharge the high-voltage capacitor using an insulated screwdriver or a dedicated discharge tool like a resistor probe to prevent residual shocks.
    • Wear insulated gloves (rated for at least 1000V) and safety glasses.

    Testing Stage:

    • Use a multimeter (e.g., Fluke 117) to verify zero voltage on wires and components before touching.
    • Do your work in a dry place with good lighting. Stay away from metal surfaces because they can carry electricity.

    Cleanup Stage:

    • Reassemble only after double-checking all connections with the multimeter.
    • Plug in and test from a safe distance; if issues arise, consult a certified technician. These steps minimize risks, with studies from the National Fire Protection Association showing proper discharge reduces shock incidents by 90%.

    Once you’ve mastered these for your microwave, [applying the same safety protocols to fixing a broken outlet](https://howisolvedit.com/diy-life-hacks/home-repairs/electrical-fixes/fix-broken-outlet-safely/) becomes your next straightforward project.

    Why Avoid Water Near Electrical Parts?

    Water conducts electricity, turning a simple wipe-down into a path for dangerous shorts.

    People still believe that wiping a device quickly with a damp cloth while fixing it is safe, but even a small amount of water near outlets or inside the device can increase electric shock risks by up to 10 times, based on a 2020 NFPA study on electrical hazards. For instance, wiping a dusty power strip with a wet rag creates a conductive bridge, potentially shorting circuits and causing fires-over 50,000 U.S. home electrical fires occur annually from such errors (U.S. Fire Administration data).

    Instead, opt for dry methods:

    • use compressed air cans to dislodge dust,
    • microfiber cloths for surfaces,
    • or 90% isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab for sticky residues.

    Always unplug devices first, and for internals, consult manufacturer guidelines or professionals to avoid voiding warranties.

    How to Handle High-Voltage Areas?

    Discharge the high-voltage capacitor first using a resistor to safely access the magnetron area.

    1. Unplug the microwave and wait at least 5 minutes to allow residual charge to dissipate, as recommended by GE service guidelines for models like the JVM3160RF4SS.
    2. Use a 20,000-ohm, 5-watt resistor connected between the capacitor terminals to bleed off voltage-never short directly with a screwdriver to avoid sparks.
    3. Test with a digital multimeter set to 20kV DC range; probes should show 0 volts across terminals.
    4. For the JVM3160RF4SS, visually inspect the blue high-voltage capacitor and diode assembly near the magnetron; charged components often retain a slight hum or warmth.
    5. If unsure, consult the official GE repair manual (publication #49-40121) for diagrams.
    6. Always wear insulated gloves during handling.

    What Protective Gear is Essential?

    Slip on rubber gloves and safety glasses before probing any circuit to block potential arcs.

    For basic protection, opt for Class 00 rubber gloves rated to 500V, like those from Salisbury by Honeywell ($40/pair), which shield against incidental contact during simple tasks.

    In breaker reset scenarios, verify the power is off by listening for a click and waiting 30 seconds.

    Advanced setups include a non-contact voltage tester, such as the Klein Tools NCVT-3P ($30), to scan wires safely without touching them-beeping alerts prevent shocks, as recommended by OSHA standards (29 CFR 1910.333), which cite PPE reducing electrical injury risks by up to 70% based on NIOSH data.

    Pair with insulated tools for full safety.

    How Can You Stop Tripping from Happening Again?

    Proactive habits cut down on surprises, keeping your kitchen powered without interruptions.

    Start with source strategies: Install surge protectors like the Belkin 12-Outlet Power Strip ($25) on all appliances to shield against voltage spikes, as recommended by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA).

    Sequence monthly routines-

    1. first, inspect cords for frays using a multimeter (e.g., Klein Tools MM400, $30);
    2. second, redistribute loads by unplugging high-draw items like microwaves during peak use.

    For yearly checks, hire a certified electrician every 12 months to test circuits, preventing overloads.

    In her Home Safety Guide, Donna Ryan recommends unplugging toasters after each use and connecting them to remote plugs like the TP-Link Kasa, which costs $15, so you can check them from a distance. Users report this cuts accident chances by 40%.

    What Maintenance Routines Help?

    Monthly vent clears prevent fan blockages that force extra power pulls from the unit.

    To maintain optimal HVAC performance, follow these step-by-step routines based on ENERGY STAR guidelines.

    For quick monthly tasks (15-20 minutes):

    • Wipe interior components with a soft, damp microfiber cloth and mild detergent to remove dust, avoiding electronics.
    • Inspect and straighten power cords, ensuring no fraying or loose connections; use a multimeter to check voltage if needed.
    • Align doors by loosening hinges, adjusting with a screwdriver, and tightening for a snug seal.

    Quarterly deep cleans (1-2 hours) involve vacuuming vents with a shop vac (e.g., Ridgid 12-gallon model), disassembling filters for thorough washing, and lubricating fan motors per manufacturer specs.

    These steps can reduce energy use by up to 10%, per a 2022 EPA study.

    How to Manage Circuit Loads Effectively?

    Shift high-draw items like the stove to separate lines to free up space for microwave surges.

    Another effective load-balancing technique is temporarily unplugging non-essential high-draw appliances, such as space heaters or hair dryers, during microwave use-this costs nothing and prevents immediate overloads but requires manual intervention each time. For a more permanent solution, upgrade your kitchen circuit to a 20-amp breaker, which can handle up to 2,400 watts versus the standard 15-amp’s 1,800 watts, as per the National Electrical Code (NEC) Article 210.

    This involves hiring a licensed electrician (typically $200-$500 including parts), offering hassle-free operation but with upfront costs and potential downtime during installation.

    Balance ease by starting with unplugging; invest in upgrades for frequent high-use homes.

    Why Regular Inspections Matter?

    Catching a loose wire early stopped one homeowner’s repeated trips before a fire risk emerged.

    In a similar case documented by electrician Greg MacPherson, a routine home inspection revealed a faulty resistor in the circuit panel during a pre-sale audit.

    Using a multimeter (like the Fluke 117, priced at $200) and thermal imaging camera (FLIR ONE, $250 attachment for smartphones), MacPherson traced overheating connections that could have led to arcing and fire.

    The process involved:

    1. de-energizing the panel,
    2. visual checks for corrosion, and
    3. resistance testing under load.

    This averted $5,000 in emergency repairs and potential hazards, aligning with NFPA 70B standards on preventive maintenance.

    Homeowners can schedule annual inspections via certified pros from the National Electrical Contractors Association to mitigate such risks proactively.

    What If the Simple Fix Doesn’t Resolve the Issue?

    If it keeps tripping, that signals internal problems you should not fix alone.

    Follow this troubleshooting flowchart for circuit breaker issues, starting with safety: Unplug all devices and turn off appliances before proceeding. Escalate based on symptoms, per NEC guidelines for electrical safety.

    1. 1. **Basic Load Check**: Inspect for overloads. Example: High-draw appliances like dryers (30A circuit). Unplug one by one; reset breaker. If it holds, redistribute loads using a power strip meter (e.g., Kill A Watt tool, $20).
    2. 2. **Short Circuit Test**: Look for frayed cords or buzzing outlets. Use a multimeter (e.g., Klein Tools MM400, $30) to check continuity. If tripping recurs immediately, branch to pro-sign of grounded fault.
    3. 3. **Ground Fault Signs**: Startup power failures or GFCI trips? Test with a GFCI tester ($10). Persistent? Indicates moisture or wiring issues.
    4. 4. **Escalate to Electrician**: If basics fail, call a licensed pro (find via NATE-certified directory). Costs $100-300 for inspection; prevents fire risks per NFPA 70E standards.

    Could It Be a Deeper Electrical Fault?

    Intermittent low power often signals a degrading control board hit by surges.

    Surges, often from lightning or faulty wiring, penetrate deeper than visible insulation damage, corroding internal traces and capacitors on the board-unlike wiring, which shows charring or melting.

    Fault layers include ESD (electrostatic discharge) at the surface, voltage spikes frying semiconductors, and thermal runaway in power regulators.

    To diagnose hidden issues, use a multimeter: set to continuity mode to check for intermittent board connections; voltage mode to test output pins (expect 5V or 12V steady); resistance mode for shorts (under 1 ohm signals failure).

    Reference IEEE Std 1100 for surge protection guidelines.

    Isolate by swapping the board if tests fluctuate.

    When to Call an Electrician?

    If resets fail twice or you smell burning, dial pros immediately.

    Other red flags include flickering lights, warm outlets, or buzzing sounds from breakers-these signal potential overloads or faults, per NFPA guidelines.

    For minor issues like a tripped breaker, try resetting once, wait 5 minutes, and test a different circuit; if it recurs within 24 hours, stop DIY efforts.

    Decision time: If diagnosis requires tools like a multimeter ($20) and you’re unsure, hire a licensed electrician.

    Thresholds? DIY for under $50 in parts if experienced; otherwise, pros cost $100-200/hour but prevent fires-safer than risking $10,000+ in damages, as seen in annual U.S. electrical fire stats from the NFPA.

    How to Diagnose Persistent Problems?

    Use a multimeter to probe for continuity in fuses after confirming no obvious cord damage.

    Set your multimeter to continuity mode (often symbolized by a sound wave icon) or the ohms () setting, ensuring the power is off and the device is unplugged for safety, per NFPA 70E electrical safety standards.

    For fast checks, touch probes to fuse terminals; a beep indicates continuity, while silence signals a blown fuse-ideal for quick diagnostics on automotive circuits.

    Check slow fuses by measuring resistance. Less than 1 ohm means the fuse works.

    Infinite resistance means replace it. This works well for detailed checks in industrial settings.

    In ongoing cases, follow this order:

    1. Visually inspect for internal damage;
    2. Test adjacent wiring for shorts;
    3. Replace with a fuse of exact amperage (e.g., 15A ceramic type);
    4. Retest continuity.

    Warn against high-voltage probes (>1000V) on standard multimeters, risking arcing-use CAT III-rated tools like Fluke 117 ($200) instead to prevent shocks.

    Electrical Basics for Microwaves

    Grasping the basics demystifies why your unit behaves like a power hog.

    Start by examining its core components: the compressor in an AC unit, for instance, guzzles energy during startup cycles, much like a car engine revving hard. Poor insulation lets heat sneak in, forcing constant overwork-think of it as wearing a leaky raincoat in a storm.

    To diagnose, use a Kill-A-Watt meter ($20 on Amazon) to track real-time usage; data from the U.S. Department of Energy shows these tools cut bills by 10-20%.

    Actionable fix: Seal gaps with weatherstripping and set thermostats to 78 degreesF for savings up to 15%, per ENERGY STAR guidelines.

    Visualizing the system, imagine a diagram where power flows from inefficient seals to overtaxed motors-interrupting leaks upstream slashes total draw.

    What is the Magnetron’s Function?

    This tube converts electricity into microwaves, demanding a massive initial power jolt.

    Think of it like a light bulb’s filament warming up: just as the bulb needs a surge to glow without flickering, the magnetron tube in your microwave requires 2,000-4,000 volts to ionize gas inside, generating microwaves that agitate water molecules in food for rapid heating.

    This jolt, like a car’s starter motor, happens in milliseconds but can arc if the tube wears out-causing sparks, burnt odors, or uneven cooking. Common failures include arcing from worn seals, potentially tripping your home’s 15-20 amp circuit breakers, as noted in studies by the IEEE on high-voltage appliances.

    To avoid problems, check voltage with a multimeter during repairs and verify that the grounding is correct.

    How Do Transformers Affect Power Draw?

    Transformers increase voltage for the magnetron, which creates sudden inrush currents at startup.

    These inrush currents, often reaching 10-20 times the normal load, can trigger circuit breakers via amperage spikes exceeding 50A momentarily.

    To address this, look at transformer types: step-up transformers raise efficiency (up to 95% in models like the Panasonic NN-SN966S) but react poorly to surges, which can cause saturation at startup.

    Isolation transformers, such as those from Hammond (e.g., 182 series), add galvanic separation for safety, reducing shock hazards, though they lower efficiency to 85-90% and increase bulk/cost.

    For actionable protection, install a NTC thermistor (e.g., 10, 5A rating) in series to limit inrush, or use soft-start relays like Omron G2R-1-E.

    Per IEEE Std 141-1993, proper sizing prevents nuisance tripping in industrial setups.

    Why Do Capacitors Pose Risks?

    Even unplugged, capacitors hold lethal charges, ready to zap the unwary.

    In 2014, a Florida man died from cardiac arrest after touching a charged microwave capacitor, as documented in an NFPA safety report-highlighting the real risks of DIY electronics. To safely discharge, follow these steps:

    1. Power off and unplug the device, waiting 5 minutes.
    2. Wear insulated gloves (rated 1000V) and safety goggles.
    3. Identify the capacitor’s terminals.
    4. Bridge them with a 1k-10k, 5W resistor for 30 seconds to bleed charge gradually.
    5. Measure voltage with a multimeter; repeat if above 10V.

    For high-voltage units like those in TVs (>500V), use alligator-clip probes and avoid metal tools to prevent arcs.

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